Page 78 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP

Textile & Handloom Exercise 1.5.44
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Weaving and Designing

Twill weave and its derivatives on loom

Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• prepare different fabrics with twill and twill derivatives

Requirements

Tools/Equipment’s/Instruments
• 4-shaft loom - 1 No. • Heddles - 1 No.
• Warp threads - 1 No. • Shuttle - 1 No.
• Weft thread - 1 No. • Graph paper - 1 No.
• Reed - 1 No.

PROCEDURE

1 Plain 2/2 twill weave on a 4-shaft loom Pick(weft row) Lift these shafts
• Take a graph with twill weave design and check 1 1&2
how many heald shafts are required as per the
design. 2 2&3
3 3&4
• For.e.g. if the drafting order is in 4 then take 4
heald shaft and place it in front of the warp beam. 4 4&1
• According to the design, take a first threads from • Then repeat the sequence.
warp beam and insert it through the first heald 2 Pointed twill weave threading on loom
eye of the first heald shaft with the help of heald
hook. • Take a graph with pointed twill weave design
and Count the number of shafts required for
• Then take the second thread from the beam and threading.
draw in through the first heald eye of the second
heald shaft. • Now start threading the warp on shaft 1.
• Then take the third warp thread and draw in • Continue threading in sequence up to shaft 4.
through the first heald eye of the third heald shaft. • Reverse the threading pattern from 3-2-1.

• Then take the fourth warp thread and draw in • Repeat this pattern across the entire warp.
through the first heald eye of the fourth heald
shaft. • Now do the denting of the warp e.g.: 2, 2 threads
in each dent.
• Likewise draw all the warp threads(e.g)
• Warp the loom and thread the heddles in the
1 → 2 → 3 → 4 → 1 → 2 → 3 → 4 pointed sequence (e.g., 1-2-3-4-3-2-1).
1 = First heddle on Shaft 1 • Sley the reed (typically in a straight order).

2 = First heddle on Shaft 2 • Tie up the treadles to match the desired twill
3 = First heddle on Shaft 3 pattern.
4 = First heddle on Shaft 4 • Treadle in a way that either mirrors the threading
or goes straight (1-2-3-4) depending on the visual
• Repeat across the width of the warp. effect you want.
• Now pass the warp into the reed (e.g. 2 ends of 3 Diamond weave threading on loom
warp in first dent and 3 ends of warp in second
dent) order wise or as per required. • Warp the loom

Treadling (Weft Order / Pedal Use) - Measure and cut your warp threads to the
desired length.
• To get the 2/2 twill, lift two adjacent shafts at a
time, shifting by one with each pick like this: - Use a warping mill for even tension.
- Sley the reed (e.g., 1 or 2 threads per dent
depending on width/density).

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